Tuesday, 17 February 2015

CARNIVAL....Bahian style

         Now the annual carnival is over, it's time to reflect.  I have not been lucky enough to see them all, not even the major towns..... but I loved it. I understand throughout Bahia, a mainly coastal region here in Brasil, there are many towns hosting their own version of Carnival. Each one choosing their individual start and finish date, over the course of some three weeks in January/February. The night I wrote this, we apparently had 24,000+ people here in Arraial d'Ajuda, a relativly small place. It was roughly in the midst of the Carnival here, but still, many more people visiting than I thought. 
        This is a place people from all over Brasil and the world come to find a laid back, relaxed holiday area. Although I think a great many of that crowd came primarily to see this noisy, happy and colourful annual celebration, to be a part of the festive side of it all. Indeed, most of it is held at such a volume, how could you be unaware of it. I like the noise and bustle of Brasil, I like its brashness, but there were nights over the course of those few days and nights, when even I have regretted the fact I had no cotton wool or earplugs handy. The partying can go in u til early in the morning.  Even loving the music and life as I do, it can get very loud. It's my feeling that even with such aids, I could easily have been deafened. Especially at those times there was a DJ instead of a live band. They seem to believe that the louder they are, the better it makes them, but the majority of the oepeople loved it all. DJ music can be so loud, it literally vibrates your heart...a bit scary I thought. I wasn't sure if it might increase my circulation, or stop my heart altogether. 
         I guess I'm a music Virgin as far as outside music venues of this kind go. But that's Brasil, if you want the same sort of music venue you find at home, especially in Europe, you won't find it here. Come to Brasil if you're young at heart, or if you want something different. Or, if you're jaded and want to feel enervated, stirred back to life. Enjoy the music on the beaches, along the sea front and around the town. Everywhere you smile, you'll have two back. Don't miss the carnival, take care of your hearing, your sleep and your belongings,  but experience it. Most of the people are having so much fun, the atmosphere so great, you can't help but enjoy it too. 
        One of the more religious ceremonies. Floating this boat on the sea to bring good luck.
       But, as my first full Carnival, I have enjoyed it immensely. As well as been amused at some of the 'way out' characters taking part. You have to admire the musicality of the bands, along with how much hard work it's taken to get to that point. The bands and dancers practice for months, the costumes can take all year to make. Especially, in bigger Rio de Janeiro, where it's almost an industry...but also a labour of love. Then there are the variety of costumes, or is the briefness of them, little scraps of this and that and lots of smooth flesh. Drums pounding everywhere, with the choreography, and great imagination of the dance encouraging us all to participate. Or, even if like me, just to have fun as a spectator .  Possibly you may have seen the tv programs, showing how a whole year of work goes into the many exceptional costumes especially, as well as the music and dancing.
                   One of the dancing, drumming groups this year...paulinas, was excellent.

           Of course the people all dance here. It's as if they grew up knowing how to dance. Even as they stroll by, taking the evening air, if they hear music, they can't help but shake their stuff...I love to see it. To see the ordinary looking parents, with a child, or having put on some weight, suddenly clasping their partner and breaking into a sexy dance. Often the child will try his own version, right in the street, it's normal. Even my little grandson gives a pretty good impression of a bump and grind routine, wearing a big grin. At seven years old he can really shake his maraccas, without any embarrassment. Yes, some of the small children who take part are really amazing, no one minds if they are clearly learning, no pressure on them at all. They like children in Brasil, I don't see any child being slapped or shouted at around the supermarket, in fact they don't go to the supermarket.  You don't see snarling, stressed out parents as I have seen in London. Perhaps the children are left a little too free to wander here, but it's how it used to be when I was young...children wander off, exploring, discovering, making good childhood memories.....oh that the world was still like that.
        Overall it's laid back in Bahia, the place to take it easy, to relax. With the coast line of beautiful beaches, blue tranquil seas, scattered with beach bars and restaurants. Yes, it's also noisy, colourful and full of fun.... so, what's not to like. If you get the chance come visit and enjoy the Carnival days for yourself. I guarantee if you do, you will be backs again. It's joyful and quite addictive.
          
        

Monday, 2 February 2015

Paradise Island...Arraial d Ajuda. (Written for ArraialBahai.com)

        Arraial d Ajuda, Porto Seguro and Trancoso sit close together on a wonderful stretch of coastline in Biaha, Brasil, South America. In recent years this small stretch of coast has become something of a hideaway for the stars. Many of whom have either bought property here themselves, or relatives own some secluded place. Be it a simple or a grand hideaway. The area holds many family attractions like the Water Park, the Ecological Park both on Arraial. Or you can visit one of the first churches built in Brasil, named after one of Christopher Columbus ships, Our Lady of Healing. There are only three such in Brasil, all built in the mid 5000's.  Although its greatest attraction being the natural wonders, of the sea, sand and sun. In addition you can discover real Brasil, with friendly people and laid back lifestyles. Just the place to get away from it all and relax. A fact many well known names have noted and taken advantage of.
          Arraial as its called locally, looks and acts as an island. It's location lies across the river that flows around Porto Seguro. From that harbour, there is a flourishing ferry service that runs day and night. This carries vehicles and foot passengers. Whilst another ferry next to these, carries only pedestrians. As its not strictly an island, but a peninsular, it can be reached by road, but not easily even now. As roads in many parts of Brasil can be somewhat neglected, the favourite method seems to be by ferry (or 'balsa' as its called in Portugese) Portugese, actually Brasilian Portugese being the official language of Brasil. Being a Latin based language many words are similar to English, Italian or Spanish.
           Why come to Arraial? The better question might be, why not. The beaches from the Balsa onwards are spectacular, as is the sea. You can find the ideal stretch of sand and sea to suit yourself easily. Whether it be a busy beach with a bustling restaurant, seating and lounging provided. Alternatively, perhaps a simple stretch of beach, overlooking a few regularly used fishing boats. Or, anything in between as the sun graces them all and the sea is good bathing. Many of the beaches being gently shelving, it's safe too. A good stretch of the coast under Arraial has a rocky outcrop of reef a few meters from shore, which makes a magic, sun warmed stretch of water in which to cool off. Although, if you can tear yourself away from a cool beer, water, or food long enough, the swimming for the more adventurous is great too. Various water sports are on offer as you stroll the length of the beach. Then, the walking is enjoyable with always somewhere new on the horizon.
          Within the town, everything you want can be found. Hotels, Pousada (B+ B) both larger and more intimate. These begin from the time to get off the balsa and continue right around the pretty little town at the top of the Astarada la Balsa. The town offers the usual bars, supermarkets or speciality shops. From the big church and restful garden square, down the 'Broadway' you will find clothing, perfumes, soaps, mystic, chemists and eating places of all kinds. In the second square at the end of Broadway lies a small original cemetery, now surrounded by all the nightly bustle of stalls (or bahacas )which is Brasil. It's the place to sit in the evening and watch the world go by. Turning left up Rua Mucage you will find a world of delights. Small cafes and larger restaurants of all kinds. Many more Pousadas, tucked away overlooking the drop to the sea. As well as boutique shops, property shop, furniture, vehicle hire, night clubs, and everything else you might wish to see.